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长安未央

14-11-11 03:33:52 来源:《lifestyle品味生活》11月刊 我要评两句

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长安未央

Go West in Style

 

 


西安,不仅仅是一处寻常意义上的观光地。正是有了西安索菲特传奇酒店和西安盛美利亚酒店这样高水准酒店的存在,才不至于让商务人士对这个十三朝古都却步。


Xi'an is not just for visits to the usual sites. The Sofitel Legend People's Grand Hotel and Gran Meliá are among many reasons not to dread business trips to the capital of 13 dynasties.

Text: Nels Frye


想象一下,你第二次去西安,这次你不是游客,也不再是背包客,不去兵马俑和大小雁塔。你早已经见识过北京的钟鼓楼,也没有耐性再去博物馆探寻周汉文物了。晚上回民街的摩肩接踵让你望而生畏,即使这里的羊肉串是那么鲜嫩多汁。更压抑的是,整整一公里的街上都找不到喝酒的地方——这感觉着实让人幽闭恐惧。当地的面条实在“厚重”。从西安高新技术产业开发区到西安经济技术开发区,最后又去西安绿地笔克国际会展中心参加第三届中国西部跨国采购洽谈会,多么忙碌的一天啊。这时候你最需要一杯品质上乘的啤酒。谢天谢地,回到老城了,也终于找到感觉了,要知道城墙外的世界看起来毫无特色,与其它城市如出一辙。


令人惊喜的是,南门附近有一家杰诺比利时酒吧,可以喝到熟悉的智美、督威、粉象,还有各种果啤,比如林德曼,甚至还有马里斯、树妖这样的非主流选择。当然,千万不要错过粉红猪啤酒。这家酒吧还曾上过英国《单片眼镜》杂志。


在西安,自行车是必不可少的。出租车司机似乎都不那么可靠,他们开的比亚迪也不够舒适。幸运的是,西安索菲特传奇酒店给客人提供定制的自行车。你可以在古城墙上骑车,一睹古城建筑的风采。西安在打造现代化国际大都市的同时,成功“藏匿”了迷人的历史风采。事实上,这座城市的功能社区看起来很有中国特色。南门东西部诸多区域也是如此,值得骑车游览一下。


但对于喜爱建筑的人来说,西安索菲特传奇酒店非常值得留宿,哪怕只是在酒店的意大利餐厅用午餐,在园林式花园散散步。1953年,西北设计研究院总设计师洪庆利用前皇家宫廷遗址恢宏的气势和绝佳的地理环境,巧妙融入法国古典建筑的典雅与精致,打造出西北第一座接待国家领导人及各国首脑政要的“国宾馆”人民大厦(2004年更名为雅高人民大厦)。这里曾接待过的名人包括中国前总理周恩来、陈毅元帅、前总理朱镕基、法国前总统密特朗,以及众多欧亚皇室成员、行业领袖和外宾,例如亨利·基辛格等。


毗邻省政府的西安索菲特传奇酒店是雅高人民大厦建筑群的一部分(所有坐落在院内的酒店属于雅高集团管理)。这是一块风水福地,不管冬天多么严寒,院内的桂花树、橄榄树似乎都长得极好——也许是因为这里曾是唐朝宫殿的一部分。酒店由屡获国际殊荣的香港郑中设计事务所(CCD)设计。CCD在尊重原来设计主题的情况下,将现代顶级奢华融入其中,其董事长兼总裁郑忠更是亲自担纲公共区域及71间客房和套房设计。整栋建筑选用大量的法国国花香根鸢尾作为元素,凸显出浓厚的法式风情。

 

 

 

 

 


Imagine you are visiting Xi'an for the second time. This time you aren't a tourist and you're not a backpacker any more. No terra-cotta warriors or Goose Pagodas, you've already been up the Bell and Drum Towers in Beijing and you don't really have patience for looking at Han and Zhou artifacts in the museums. You don't want to face the crowds of Islamic street at night even if those lamb skewers are mighty juicy. The thought of fighting through that mob for almost a kilometer without the option of stopping for a drink - alcohol isn't permitted on this street where all is halal - sounds claustrophobic. Those local noodles are just too heavy. It's been a tough day going from the Xi'an Hi-Tech Industries Development Zone to the Xi'an Economic and Technological Development Zone and then ending up at the 3rd Western China Multinational Sourcing Fair at the Xi'an Greenland Pico International Convention Exhibition Center. Thank goodness you're back within the city walls because everything outside of them looked exactly like a thousand other cities in China.


After all that exuberant monotony, you need a good beer. Surprisingly, there is a place in town that offers an ample selection, a bar by the south gate with the very revelatory name Belgian Bar. There you will meet familiar friends like Chimay, Duvel, and Delirium as well as the various fruity beers like Lindemans, but there are also some more obscure entries like Maredsous, La Cuvee des Trolls, and the must-try Rince Cochon Thirsty Pig. This bar has even been in the Monocle.


Before leaving the hotel, a bike is essential. Getting cabs in the city is treacherous, and they are BYDs so not the height of luxury. Fortunately, the Sofitel Legend People's Grand Hotel Xian has a charming fleet of customized two wheelers available to guests. Seeing the part of Xi'an in the walls by bike allows visitors to gain an appreciation for the vernacular architecture which can be quite attractive in many places. Xi'an has done a good job of hiding it historic flourishes to modern neighborhoods. In the city there are functioning neighborhoods that actually look Chinese. Many of the areas to the east and west of the South Gate have this appearance and this is the place to explore by bike.


But for those fond of architecture, the first Sofitel Legend in China and Fifth worldwide, the People's Grand will be the choice for a stay or just a visit that includes lunch at its Italian restaurant, Dolce Vita, and a walk through its lovely gardens. Opened in 1953 as the State Guesthouse, the hotel was designed by Hong Qing, Chief Architect of the Northwest Institute of Architectural Design. Countless luminaries have stayed in the hotel including Premier Zhou Enlai, Marshal Chen Yi, Zhu Rongji, François Mitterrand, and Henry Kissinger as well as royalty from Europe and Asia.

Right next to the provincial government complex, the People's Grand is a blessed spot where plants from osmanthus to olives seem to grow with no problem despite the temperate climate with cold winters. This may be because this was formerly part of the grounds of the Tang imperial palace. The structure itself has many French touches, including fleur-de-lis (stylized lily) as a recurring motif. Joe Cheng, chairman and CEO of Hong Kong-based Cheng Chung Design, created the interiors for the public areas and 71 rooms and suites with a design that respected the themes of the original design while updating it and bringing it to the cutting edge of contemporary luxury.



“数”说西安


Key Figures

人口:6501189(根据2010年人口普查数据,9个城区)。根据经济学人智库的报告,西安是中国13个新兴大城市之一。

生产总值(2013):814亿美元,人均9220.59美元。

最具代表性人物:张艺谋导演

最著名历史人物:数不胜数,可能以秦始皇为最。

Population: 6,501,189 (Nine urbanized districts according to 2010 Census). Xi'an is one of 13 emerging megacities in China, according to a July 2012 report by the Economist Intelligence Unit.

GDP (2013) Total: USD 81.4 billion - Per capita USD 9,220.59.

Most famous person (living): Director Zhang Yimou.

Deceased: So many, but probably Emperor Qin Shi Huang.

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